This weeks guru post is from the lovely Bex from Becca Make Up. She's showing us lucky ladies how to get a smoky but natural look that's perfect for your big day!
Prepare your skin for foundation by highlighting with MAC Strobe Cream and apply MAC Prep and Prime for skin. Now put on foundation, (I used MAC studio fix fluid foundation in NW20 ) with a flat foundation brush – Ruby & Millie do a good one that is not too pricey. Buff out any lines and even out your base with a good fibre-optic foundation brush such as MAC’s 188 brush. Now apply concealer to any problem areas, I used MAC Studio fix in NW20. I generally apply my concealer to the under eye area, around the nostrils where it is slightly red and my chin to hide redness. You can also use your concealer to prime your lids ready for shadow and it will even out the colour of the lids. As with the under eye, the whole eye area is delicate so work the product in either with a brush or by patting it on taking care not to drag.
Using a contour brush I applied a flat bronzer (no shimmery effect) to sculpt my face and add cheekbones! To do this suck your cheeks in and follow the shadows that form, follow them from the outside in gradually tapering off towards your nose. I also add a bit to the bridge of my nose to give the illusion of a more ‘button like’ nose. This part is different for everyone, depending on features you want to play down or up. For example you may have a wide nose and to give the illusion of a narrower nose, the colour should be applied down the sides of the nose, not on top. You can also make the face appear narrower by applying the product predominantly around the sides of the face. A great product for this is MAC Mineralize Skin Finish in medium / deep. Finish this step by applying blusher to the apples of your cheeks, I used Make Up Store blush in Sugarpink.
Prep eyelids (if you haven’t already applied concealer to them) using Benefit’s Lemon Aid – I love this product as it magically evens out the colour banishing redness and darker areas plus giving a great base for eyeshadow to be applied. Shape and fill in brows using a good pencil such as Lord & Berry’s Magic Brow in 1706. To know where you brows should end, take your pencil (as shown in the pic) and rest on the side of your nose following up to the corner of the eye – brows shouldn’t normally extend past this point. Apply your pencil in short feathery motions to mimic natural hair growth. If you prefer you can use eyeshadow to fill in your brows, just choose a matching shade or one shade darker and use a small slanted brush.
Shade the whole eyelid with an iridescent shadow slightly paler than your skintone to blend with the other shadow and also highlights your brow-bone – I used MAC’s Shroom shadow. I’ve used a fluffy shadow brush for this step to give a soft ‘wash ‘ of colour.
Line eyes with a soft kohl pencil – I find Lord & Berry’s Sketch pencil in black fantastic, it’s really intense colour and soft texture makes it really easy to blend. When lining your eyelids take your finger and place on the brow bone gently pulling upwards, this ensures the liner is tight to lashline. It also doesn’t matter if your line isn’t totally perfect as it’s going to get smudged anyhow! I flicked mine out slightly for a more feline appearance, this can be made more or less dramatic depending on how you want it.
Blend the eyeliner with a pencil brush such as the Models Own Blending Brush. There should be no harsh lines left as this will be the basis of the ‘smokey’ look.
After you have done this take MAC shadow in ‘Kid’ and apply over 2/3 of the eyelid just up to below your brow bone and focus on the outer corner of the eye, there should be more depth of colour here. Next take a slightly darker shade and take your pencil brush to apply this along your lashline and contour your eyes by applying from the outside corner along your crease gradually tapering towards the inner eye. Now blend the colour so you still have the intensity along the lashline and crease but again, no harsh lines. I finished off the look with a liquid liner, a really easy one to use is MAC’s penultimate eyeliner in black – it’s basically like a felt tip pen so less room for error.
Curl lashes and apply mascara – a really good budget buy is Max Factor’s Masterpiece Max mascara, I use it all the time. At this point you could also apply false lashes for a more dramatic effect. I tend to get very shiny skin so I apply MAC Blot Powder to combat this mainly in the T zone, this can normally be found in my bag too for quick touch ups on the go. It doesn’t get cakey even if it is re-applied all day, it’s a great product. You could also use another product from MAC, the prep + prime loose powder is great at setting make up once you are done. I sometimes use this and follow with blot powder later on if my skin gets shiny when I’m out.
That’s it, you’re done…
You can make this look more or less dramatic to suit you by the heaviness of any liner, the depth of the colours used and whether you decide to use false lashes or not so have fun with this and adapt it suit you!!